Mk1 Alarm And Central Locking At Wits End!

[Gidwick]

Recently I was having problem with my key fob, so decided to change that battery, problem is I locked the car with the fob, then changed the batteries. Then couldn't get the key fob to unlock the car.

 

So I try opening the car via key in the door and the alarm sounds but for some reason I can't turn it off with the keyfob or with the key turning in the door.

 

When I turn the key in the driver's door I can't hear the central locking motors whirring, so wondering if the central locking has packed up too.

 

I can't use the car as the alarm goes off every time I open the door, I've had to disconnect the battery but every time I reconnect the alarm kicks in.

 

Please someone help me with a answer, can I disable the alarm some other way so at least can get it to a garage.

[sparky Paul]

The initial problems with the central locking may be down to snapped and/or damaged door gaiter wiring, which is a common issue - the tailgate and driver's door are the most likely culprits. If the central locking is completely inoperable from any lock, it's possible that a fuse may have blown due to wiring shorting out, so it will be worth checking that out before starting.

 

If you can get the central locking to work on the key, you should be able to disarm the alarm and you can set about fixing the remote locking. If your car is a mk2 Galaxy or late mk1, the procedure to resync the remote locking is in the FAQ in the Technical Section,

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/1485-coding-a-sharan-remote-key-fob/?p=9914

Edited May 19, 2015 by sparky Paul

[Gidwick]

Thanks for the reply,

 

My Galaxy is a 1999 tdi, I have tried the procedures in reprogramming the key fob to no avail.  Could this be due to the fob not sending a signal ( the red led comes on when the buttons are pressed) is there any way of checking this?

 

I have briefly checked the wiring in the gaiters and they look ok, not removed them though which may show something else.  I cant open the tailgate as the key hole is stuck (due to never being used)

 

Im thinking worse case scenario, new central locking motors and new key?

[sparky Paul]

A '99 registered car will have the mk.2 electrical systems, so the programming procedure in the FAQ is correct.

 

No response from the central locking by key does point towards a problem with the wiring, or a fuse blown, and the reprogramming will fail if the locking signal from the lock switch does not reach the central locking module in the body control module (BeCM) behind the fusebox. I would check the central locking fuses and the wiring thoroughly before proceeding - IIRC fuse 19 is for the locking, but check the other fuses too.

 

The alarm, PATS security system, central locking and remote control are all integrated into the BeCM and ECU. There is no easy way to bypass the alarm or immobiliser, so you need to find the root cause of the problem.

[BrianH]

Fuse 19 is the one for my mk1 (late 97) model. I'd try flooding the bootlock with some wd40 as a first mesaure to free it up. Assuming the key you have is the right one that is as you've never used it it may be a lock thats been changed!

 

Sounds to me like the wiring in the gaiters would be suspect to be the cause of your issues - if you aren't confident in fixing it yourself (info on that in the faq section) then first step would be to pull back the gaiter (start with the drivers door, then the boot) and at least seperate the wires from each other (put some tape over the bare bits) - then replace the fuse if its blown and try again. providing you can work logically and tackle one wire at a time its not too bad a job to do.

[Gidwick]

Went through all the fuses in the fuse box earlier, all were ok except the 3amp one for the ecu, it had blown but someone has bypassed it with a bit of wire around the blade, didn't have a spare so will replace tomorrow. Struggling to get in to the boot as it's locked.

 

Briefly checked the wire in the gaiters, couldn't see anything amiss but may need a closer look, I didn't get chance to remove the gaiters fully.

[BrianH]

Try some wd40 in the boot lock (leave it overnight) and try again with the key, might be more sucessful with the battery disconnected to do this. If you have the battery connected try operating the door lock via the inside handle instead - if this works it may be enough to release the boot so you can get a look inside the gaiter there.

[Gidwick]

Had a brief look at the wiring gaiter in the driver's door, I can't see any clear breaks or damage but it's hard to see without removing the gaiter fully.

 

One thing I have noticed is that the internal handle will not fully push inwards to lock the doors from the inside, all the other 3 doors are ok there is a definite click inwards and tension when pulled to, could this be a cable problem or a stuck motor, the key still turns the lock ok

[BrianH]

It may be the drivers door lock motor at fault. It could be it's got stuck in deadlock.

 

Does the passenger side do the same?

[sparky Paul]

As BrianH says, what happens when you try to unlock with key in the passenger door? Does it only unlock that door?

 

Once you do manage to get into the boot, any problems with the the wiring in the gaiter are obvious once you pull the rubber back. The driver's door one can be trickier, any damage to the wires should be fairly obvious, but you can also get breaks in the large multi-connector itself.

 

I would flood the boot lock with penetrating oil and leave it a while to do its job, as suggested above. Sometimes wiggling the key helps if the tumbler pins are sticking or worn, and sometimes helps if the lock barrel has disintegrated, not uncommon. If you can get the lock to work, turning 90° to the left should force the lock open manually.

[Gidwick]

The driver's side was ok although a little spongy, unfortunately I was twisting the lock and broke the collar that attaches to the lock barrel, currently have one on order waiting it to arrive.

 

Is it possible to remove the motor and free it or is it just better try to get a new one.

[BrianH]

its possible to remove the motor - the first bit is to remove the handle on the outside (torx head screw nearest the handle side on the door) and then you should be able to drop the lock motor down and withdraw the whole lot. Its a bit fiddly though be warned

 

You also need to get the door card off - you will almost certainly break some of the yellow clips doing that, so be prepared to replace them

 

The collar is a rubbish bit of "design" which is a common failure point, and the reason i fitted a universal remote locking kit to mine (as it has no remote locking being an aspen). After the 3rd one of those broke it annoyed me too much.

 

Once you get the lock out try operating the lock bit with a screwdriver - if its difficult to turn this is why it broke the collar in the first place. either solve the sticking issue, or replace with one in a better state.

 

While you have the door card off use the opportunity to release some of the slack in the cables and check there really isn't any broken ones there (every door except the passenger side front in mine had some broken insulation on the cables when i tackled mine last year, the boot in particular was a disaster area and how anything on it worked in the state it was in is beyond me)

[BrianH]

Also it may be theres nothing actually wrong with your motor besides it not receiving power or a signal due to a broken wire, so you may not want to condem it just yet. Think in your position I'd tackle removing the door card first to recheck the wires. Also if you can get the connector off of the door pillar and inspect the wiring there it might show a bad connection on the connector there as ViperClive has already pointed out.

[Gidwick]

Cheers guys, I appreciate all your assistance :)

 

I was thinking about removing the gaiter and pull the plug through the speaker hole in the door so I can inspect it properly, I have managed to remove the twist lock on the gaiter plug, but the door itself where the loom comes through has a plastic cowl that I can't see to get off so I can pull the plug through, any ideas? Does anyone know which colour wire the central locking is.

 

Not managed to get into the boot yet, I would take it to my mechanic but he's on holiday till next week, but with the help you guys are offering I reckon I could manage it myself.

[BrianH]

Does the window on the door in question work? the usual wire to break is the red or brown one that supplies it as its thicker, this seems to control quite a bit of the door electrics though.

 

Go the other way with the wires - release the slack inside the door itself, then pull the excess out through the door hinge side (don't think you will get it to go the other way).

 

You may succeed in getting into the boot if the suspected broken wire is in the front door, once you can operate the lock from there. You should be able to open it off the key either way providing the lock itself isn't actually broken. if all else fails disconnect the battery and see if you can move any of the wires going to the tailgate from inside the boot (remove the drivers side trim on the pillar to do so). If one has snapped you may be able to disturb it enough to get the locks to release. Once you do make sure you check the tailgate loom for any broken wires before you close it again though!

 

You don't need to touch the passenger side of the tailgate, its only the washer pipe there.

[Gidwick]

The boot lock is soaking in wd40 overnight as we speak, and will try releasing the boot tomorrow, the driver's door gaiter has a thick red wire that looks like it's had some repair in the past I'll whip off the heat shrink and see if that is damaged, been practicing my soldering today on scrap wire just in case I find something, to try all things suggested will keep me busy for a morning ordering a couple of dozen door panel clips too.... Proper prepared lol

[Gidwick]

Had a really good look at the wires in the driver's side,  can't see an issue with them at all,  I was messing with the locking mechanism,  interior handle and key lock with the battery disconnected,  it moves quite freely in and out,  I now have a problem with the door catch,  it seems to in locked position so I now can't even close the door (see attached picture),  I'm starting to feel like a right noob now,  can I free that up easily? 

[Gidwick]

Also  when I connected the battery albeit the alarm scaring all the neighbours,  I found out that the boot could be opened with the handle,  checked the wires in the RH gaiter they seem to be ok too,  so obviously the reason I couldn't open the boot was because the battery was disconnected 

[BrianH]

take a screwdriver and put it into the hole where the latch goes

 

Also  when I connected the battery albeit the alarm scaring all the neighbours,  I found out that the boot could be opened with the handle,  checked the wires in the RH gaiter they seem to be ok too,  so obviously the reason I couldn't open the boot was because the battery was disconnected 

Take a screwdriver or similar and put it into the lock where i've put an arrow below, pull the outer handle and then push the screwdriver towards the opening (away from the door towards the middle of the car) it should then release and work after that (you've engaged the catch with the door open thats all).

 

You should still be able to turn the key in the boot lock though either way battery connected or not. As you have said if the battery is off then it won't open on the handle.

 

I'll have a look in mine tomorrow theres one other idea i've got to get the car drivable - see if theres a switch that detects the bonnet open, if there is disconnecting it usually prevents the alarm from arming itself. (its too dark outside for me to look now)

 

 

[Gidwick]

The screwdriver trick worked, at least I can shut and lock my door now :), there is no bonnet switch that I can see, I had though about disconnect the alarm siren but apparently it's tucked away under the wiper motor, harder to get to than I thought.

[SilverBeast]

If I recall (as I can't be bothered going outside to check!) the bonnet switch works off a flat on the passenger side bonnet hinge mechanism.

[BrianH]

If I recall (as I can't be bothered going outside to check!) the bonnet switch works off a flat on the passenger side bonnet hinge mechanism.

You'd be correct - its there, worth a try unplugging it to see if you can regain some sanity.

 

Only other thing i can think to try is a scan with vcds lite if it will speak to the alarm - i've never tried it personally.

 

Have tried to post a photo of it, but for some reason the forum won't allow me to today.

Edited May 22, 2015 by BrianH

[Gidwick]

Sorry guys,  went away for a few days and put the stress of the non working galaxy behind me :) 

 

Yep I can see the alarm switch on the bonnet flat,  how is it accessed to disconnect it. 

 

Hopefully I'm near the end to solving this problem

[BrianH]

just pull the plug off - theres clips above and below it, press these together and pull gently.

[Gidwick]

Cheers for that Brian, mine had a cowling around it, managed to disconnect it and it worked no alarm .... Until I opened the door, maybe they all need disconnecting.

 

Got my mechanic coming round with his computer tomorrow hopefully.